1. Introduction
Just 24 hours ago, a major European cosmetics brand announced it’s phasing out sodium lauryl sulfate from all shampoos by 2025, citing consumer demand for milder, bio-based alternatives. This move reignites the global debate over traditional anionic surfactants versus next-generation options.
At the heart of this shift is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)—also known as sodium dodecyl sulfate or natrium lauryl sulfate—a workhorse surfactant used for decades in everything from toothpaste to herbicides. But how does it really compare to modern alternatives? Let’s break it down.
2. What Is a Surfactant, Anyway?
The meaning of surfactant is simple: it’s a surface-active agent that reduces tension between liquids or between a liquid and solid. Surfactants have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a hydrophobic (oil-loving) tail, allowing them to lift dirt, foam, emulsify, or spread chemicals evenly.
They fall into four main classes: anionic, cationic, non-ionic, and amphoteric. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a classic anionic surfactant—strongly cleansing but potentially irritating.
3. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Often confused, sls sodium lauryl sulfate and sls sodium laureth sulfate (also called sodium lauryl ether sulfate or sodium lauryl ether sulphate) are chemically distinct.
SLS is derived from dodecyl alcohol and has no ethoxylation. It’s highly effective but harsh on skin. In contrast, sodium laureth sulfate (laureth sulphate) is ethoxylated—meaning ethylene oxide is added—making it milder and more soluble, though it may contain trace 1,4-dioxane.
- SLS: stronger degreaser, higher irritation potential
- SLS sodium laureth sulfate: richer foam, gentler, common in shampoos like those containing sodium lauryl ether sulphate in shampoo formulations
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